We handle the electrical side of a marine generator installation: the AC wiring from the set to the boat's distribution, a safe changeover between shore power and generator, circuit protection, control panels and auto-start, and making sure the generator charges your batteries properly.
A generator gives a boat independence from the pontoon. It runs the kettle, the immersion heater, air conditioning or a big charger when there is no shore supply, and on larger vessels it is often the main source of AC power at anchor. The engine and its mounting, fuel and exhaust are one job; getting that power safely into the boat is another, and that second part is where we come in.
Most generator problems we are asked to look at are not engine faults at all. They are nuisance trips, a changeover that lets two supplies meet, batteries that never seem to benefit from hours of running, or an auto-start that fires when it should not. All of those live in the wiring and controls, which is why planning the electrical integration properly matters as much as choosing the set.
The generator produces 230-volt AC, so it must be treated with the same care as a shore supply. That means correctly rated cable run and supported to marine practice, overcurrent protection close to the source, RCD protection for the circuits it feeds, and a clear earthing arrangement that suits the rest of the boat.
Between the generator and the consumer unit sits the changeover. Its job is simple and critical: only one AC source may feed the boat at a time. A properly specified changeover switch or automatic transfer arrangement stops shore power and generator output ever being connected together, which protects the equipment and anyone working on it.
Many owners run a generator mainly to recharge the house bank. If the charger is small, the generator spends hours lightly loaded, which is inefficient and not kind to a diesel set. We look at the whole charging picture: the charger or inverter/charger output, the battery chemistry, and how generator charging sits alongside alternator and solar input.
On boats with Victron equipment, a MultiPlus or Quattro can use the generator as its AC input, add power assist when demand briefly exceeds what the set can supply, and charge the bank at a controlled rate. That pairing is often the neatest way to get full value from a smaller generator.
Before fitting a generator it is worth asking whether a larger lithium bank and more solar would meet the same need. For many sailing boats with modest AC loads, it will. For boats running air conditioning, electric cooking or watermakers for long periods, a generator usually remains the practical answer. Our guide comparing the two options sets out the trade-offs.
We are marine electricians, so our part of generator servicing is the electrical system around the set: output checks, the changeover, protection devices, control wiring, start battery and charging, and alarm circuits. Engine servicing such as oil, impellers and filters is a mechanical job; if the fault turns out to be mechanical we will tell you plainly.
Typical electrical faults include a start battery that is not being charged, corroded control plugs, a failed hour meter or alarm sender, and an RCD that trips only when the generator is running. That last one usually points to an earthing or neutral arrangement that suits shore power but not the generator.
We start by looking at the boat, the chosen set and where it will live, then agree the scope and send a written, itemised quote. Installation work is tested before handover, and you receive documentation of what was fitted and how it is protected, so the next engineer or surveyor can follow it.
AC output wiring, a changeover between shore power and generator, circuit protection, charging integration and a control panel. On larger installations it may also include auto-start, alarms and remote monitoring.
Yes. We design the changeover so the boat switches safely between shore power and generator, and make sure both sources charge the batteries correctly.
Our work is the electrical system around the generator. If a fault is mechanical rather than electrical, we will say so and you can arrange a mechanical engineer.
Commonly because the neutral and earth arrangement on the generator side does not match how the boat is wired. It needs testing on board rather than guessing, as it is a safety issue on a 230-volt system.
Tell us about the boat, the generator and what you want it to power. We will come back with timing and a written quote.